Mašklin i lata
Mašklin in hand, lata at your feet, flavour in your heart
When choosing where to go for a nice lunch or dinner, it is easy to overlook one of the longest-running restaurants in the centre of Zagreb – both due to its unusual location and, it seems, a complete lack of marketing strategy, if it weren’t for countless praises from guests on Google, social networks and gastro-apps. On Zagreb’s popular street known as ‘the Green Wave’, in the basement of a 150-year-old building, the well-trained and experienced team wisely sticks to a concept still in high demand, which, recently and with younger generations of chefs, has almost disappeared. And that is why, even after so many years, they are still busily serving the most demanding Zagreb audience. The low brick arches, wooden details and carpet create a particularly intimate atmosphere, and the experienced and charming waiters, of the kind that have become a rare find these days, already know very well who comes for which type of shellfish and crabs, or a good steak, as well as the guests’ wine preferences. Three separate rooms can accommodate around 60 guests in an à la carte setting; smaller private celebrations are also held here, and in the evening when the candles are lit, with the gentle clink of dishes and soft music, you will have the feeling of being in some beautiful old restaurant, perhaps with a violinist, anywhere in the world, from New York to Palermo.
What is served
The food is mostly traditional Mediterranean and includes the must-try delicacies such as prosciutto and a selection of cheeses, a range of fish or steak carpaccio, seasonal daily and fish soups, gnocchi and pasta in fish, meat and vegetarian versions. There are many main courses to choose from: several types of steaks, fillets of various fish and squid, cuttlefish or octopus and most importantly, the always fresh offer of the daily catch of fish, crabs and shellfish.
There are also several salads and side dishes, and the menu ends with a sweet section where you will find, among other things, their delicious house cake and the famous Dubrovnik rožata. The beautiful bar next to the kitchen hides a lot from the world of spirits and liqueurs, and the wine list is concise and dynamic, with several expertly selected new labels.
What our chefs had
We knew what we were coming for: a seafood feast expertly served with good wine, a smile and the occasional joke from the friendly service. We started with the octopus salad - delicious with a dash of sourness, with tomato, paprika and capers, it went wonderfully well with homemade olive oil and fresh home baked bread. Then the black risotto - isn't it just like tiramisu, if you see it on the menu - you simply have to order it :) And here you will enjoy one of the best you have ever tasted. With a powerful, deep-sea flavour, rich in cuttlefish bits and sprinkled with fragrant parsley.
For the main course, they suggested the daily catch of red mullet, and who are we to object?! Red mullet, a wonderful fish, fantastic when prepared over an open fire, did not disappoint, with those beautifully charred lines from the grill, paired with creamy mash of Swiss chard and potatoes. We washed it all down with a glass of powerful Plešivica Pinot Noir sparkling wine and the day felt too good to be spoiled!
* A mašklin is a small pickaxe used to remove stones from the soil, while a lata is a container for collecting and transporting stones out of the vineyard.
