Trattoria Gola

A modern trattoria with a zero-waste approach and an excellent wine offer

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Trattoria Gola is located in Trešnjevka, which has recently become one of the most gastronomically interesting neighbourhoods in Zagreb. This bistro's concept and decor resemble modern indie bistros in the cities around the world, because it is based on a rather short menu and a specific range of drinks dominated by the so-called "natural" wines, i.e. those made with minimal interventions, as well as specific craft beers.

The interior design is minimalist, with bare tables and well-positioned lamps above them; the space is dominated by a bar with a large window into the kitchen, a board with a handwritten list of dishes and wines, and a wine shelf. During our visit, the team was preparing homemade pasta in the kitchen, Italian '80s pop was playing and the sun was shining through the large glass windows. Gola can accommodate about 20 guests; you can also sit at the bar. Unfortunately, the terrace is not yet in function, even though they are working on it.

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What is served?

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Gola (“gola” in Italian means “throat”) takes pride in making the most of food, trying to create zero food waste. They make their own butter (and therefore buttermilk), pasta, focaccia, pâtés and sauces. They also shared with us that they will soon get a macchina with which they will make their own mortadella. There are 10 dishes on offer that are written on the board but not divided into categories such as appetizers and mains, so you can combine them according to your preferences. They currently offer soparnik, pâté with chutney, fish in saor; there are also cappellacci stuffed with duck, gnocchi prepared in the traditional Northern Italian way, fish with leeks and asparagus and two types of desserts.

Chef Lucija Jergović has learned the ropes in renowned Zagreb fine dining restaurants alongside leading Croatian chefs, and she also has international experience.

There are about 15 interesting wines poured open listed on the board; if you need advice, you can always ask the owner Ivan Salopek who will be happy to recommend wines that are not on the list. Ivan is a fan of unusual wines with an emphasis on natural ones, and his affinity shapes their offer in the trattoria. Without doubt, with him you will always discover something new. In addition to wine, you can choose craft beers, ciders and spirits of craft distilleries.

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What our chefs had?

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We enjoyed an aperitif at the bar, while chatting with the owner and observing what was going on in the kitchen. Ivan served us Lovrec eco sparkling wine Vivace made from Silvaner. This unusual sparkling wine made using the classic method went perfectly with focaccia and salted butter, both of which, as we have already said, Gola makes on the spot.

The sparkling wine also went well with soparnik and the sardines in saor, which were soon served at the table. Soparnik is a traditional Croatian dish which, fortunately and to our great satisfaction, has found its place in modern restaurants. Served with yogurt sauce with garlic and lemon zest, this crunchy snack was the perfect start to this spring lunch. Fish in saor is another tradition that is really worth preserving. Gola makes it in a version with red mullet or sardines, which were on the menu during our visit. This fish marinade gets its unique sweetness from stewed onions, and in Gola they serve it with a twist of parsley oil.

For the main course, we decided on cacio e pepe and fish fillet with leek and asparagus.

Here, cacio e pepe, an Italian specialty based on mature pecorino sheep's cheese and black pepper, is made with home-made spaghetti with the addition of pumpkin cream which gives it fullness of flavour. This time the fish fillet was black cod, although it could also be monkfish, depending on the daily offer at the fish market. Black cod was served in a delicate buttermilk sauce (buttermilk is the side product when preparing butter) with caramelized leeks and wild and garden asparagus.